Beginner’s guide to making metal pendants by hand

This step-by-step tutorial walks you through choosing metals, sketching balanced silhouettes, cutting and piercing cleanly, filing and sanding, adding texture and relief, forming domes and curves, soldering bails with confidence, drilling and riveting, finishing with patina or mirror polish, and assembling on a chain. Eight inline diagrams illustrate key phases exactly where you’ll use them.

Choosing beginner-friendly metals and thicknesses

Selecting the right sheet metal makes learning enjoyable and results repeatable. Brass and copper are forgiving, inexpensive, and respond well to texture and patina. Sterling silver is classic and solders cleanly, but costs more; start with small pieces and practice on brass first.

Recommended gauges for handmade metal pendants

Metal	Common gauge (mm)	Best use	Notes
Brass (jewelry grade)	0.8–1.0 mm	Practice, bold shapes, stamped textures	Easy to saw/file; tarnishes—seal or polish
Copper	0.8–1.2 mm	Warm patinas, hammered domes	Soft, very malleable; work-hardens quickly
Sterling silver (925)	0.8–1.0 mm	Refined pieces, bezels, heirloom gifts	Clean soldering; avoid overheating

Metal selection checklist

• Pick a metal you can comfortably cut with a #2/0–#4/0 blade.
• Plan surface finish early: mirror polish, satin, or patina will affect design choices.
• For your first pendant, 28–34 mm tall is a sweet spot: visible yet light.

Design planning and template transfer for a balanced hang

A pendant looks “right” when it hangs face-forward and stays centered on the chain. Draft the silhouette on paper, draw a vertical centerline, and mark your bail position along that line. If you plan interior piercings (cutouts), leave enough metal between holes and edges for strength.

Template and layout steps

1. Sketch 2–3 shapes: a circle (Ø 28–32 mm), an oval (24×32 mm), and a soft teardrop (~34 mm tall).
2. Choose one and refine symmetry with a folded-paper mirror check.
3. Spray-mount or tape the template to the sheet; trace with a scriber.
4. Center punch your bail spot and any interior piercings.

Keep-out zones and strength rules

• Leave ≥2× hole diameter from any edge.
• For saw-pierced patterns, keep metal “bridges” ≥2.0–2.5 mm wide.

Cutting and piercing: jeweler’s saw basics for clean edges

Clean cuts reduce finishing time dramatically. Use a jeweler’s saw with fine blades (#2/0–#4/0), a steady bench pin, and light, vertical strokes. For interior cutouts, drill a pilot hole, thread the blade, and saw to the line without forcing the turn—rotate the work instead.

Cutting workflow

1. Clamp the bench pin; lubricate the blade with wax (optional).
2. Saw just outside the line; keep strokes short and vertical; let the blade do the work.
3. For piercings, drill a 0.9–1.2 mm pilot hole; unhook blade, thread through, retension.
4. Refine to the line with needle files (flat, half-round, barrette) before sanding.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Forcing curves—causes blade twist and wander; pivot the piece instead.
• Long, fast strokes—overheats and snaps blades; keep strokes measured.
• Skipping files—sanding alone rounds edges; file first for crisp geometry.

Filing, sanding, and edge comfort for handmade pendants

Files establish precision; sandpaper smooths and unifies. Work through a grit ladder to avoid deep scratches. Keep edges square to the faces, then add a tiny back bevel for skin comfort without losing the crisp front profile.

Recommended grit ladder

Stage	Grit	Goal	Tip
Level	400–600	Erase saw/file marks	Use a sanding block to keep flats true
Refine	800–1200	Close scratches; prep for finish	Straight strokes; rotate frequently
Pre-polish	1500–3000	Silky sheen	Light pressure; avoid rounding corners

Edge comfort checklist

• Front face crisp; back edge with micro-bevel (~0.2 mm).
• Run a cotton swab along the rim—no snags means wearable.

Adding character: textures, hammered finishes, and chased details

Texture transforms a simple shape into a signature piece. Light hammering, stamping, chased grooves, or roll-printed patterns add depth without sacrificing comfort. Keep textures shallow near edges and bail areas to preserve strength.

Texture methods for beginner metal pendants

• Planishing/hammered: dome lightly then pepper with overlapping light blows for a shimmering surface.
• Chasing lines: use a liner or nailset and a light hammer to cut shallow grooves for highlight.
• Stamping: letter/shape stamps; support on steel, one firm strike; avoid edge zones.
• Roll-print (advanced): texture paper or fabric through a rolling mill for even relief.

Texture placement tips

• Mask the bail zone with tape to keep solder surfaces flat.
• Stop textures ~2 mm from the perimeter to avoid thin rims.

Forming and doming: giving pendants gentle curves

Subtle curvature catches light and feels premium. Use a doming block with nylon/rawhide punches for gentle domes, or a dapping punch for small dished areas. Anneal (soften) copper and brass periodically: heat to dull red and quench, then pickle and rinse before continuing.

Doming steps

1. Place the blank face-down in a shallow dome cavity.
2. Strike the punch lightly around the perimeter, then the center for an even rise.
3. Check symmetry; flip and planish lightly on a leather pad to remove high spots.

Forming cautions

• Too much dome can distort bail alignment; test-hang early.
• Re-anneal if metal springs back or shows orange-peel texture.

Soldering a bail or jump ring: clean, strong joints for beginners

A tidy bail means a straight hang and long-lasting wear. You can solder a small ring to the top edge, attach a hidden tube bail on the back, or saw an integrated slot. For most beginners, a soldered jump ring is the fastest, most reliable option.

Soldering sequence

1. File mating surfaces flat; degrease with alcohol.
2. Flux lightly; place a tiny pallion of easy/medium solder at the join.
3. Heat the pendant (larger mass) evenly; watch solder flash into the joint.
4. Quench, pickle, rinse, neutralize; check alignment.

Ring/tube sizing quick guide

Pendant size	Ring ID	Wire gauge	Tube ID (hidden bail)
Small (≤24 mm)	4 mm	22 ga	~1.8–2.0 mm
Medium (26–30 mm)	5 mm	20 ga	~2.0–2.5 mm
Large (32–36 mm)	6 mm	18–20 ga	~2.5 mm

Drilling, riveting, and slotting options (no-solder alternatives)

If you prefer to avoid soldering, you can drill for a jump ring, install a tube rivet as a bail, or saw an integrated slot. Use a center punch for accuracy and back the exit face with wood to prevent burrs.

Drilling steps

1. Center punch; start with 1.0–1.2 mm bit; peck to clear chips.
2. Enlarge to final size (e.g., 2.0 mm) with light oil; deburr with a countersink.

Simple tube rivet bail

• Cut a short tube ~3–4 mm wide; insert through a top slot; flare ends with a rivet punch.
• Keep tube flush and smooth for comfortable chain glide.

Patinas, satin finishes, and mirror polish for a professional look

Finish amplifies form. A high polish highlights clean geometry; a satin scotch-brite finish hides micro-scratches; warm patinas on copper or brass add depth to textures. Always neutralize and seal patinas according to the product instructions.

Finish comparison

Finish	How to get it	Best for	Care
Mirror polish	3000 grit → compound → cloth	Smooth faces, engraved lines	Buff after wear; store separately
Satin	Final pass with fine abrasive pad	Modern, minimal looks	More forgiving of scratches
Patina	Chemical patina + seal	Textured copper/brass	Re-seal periodically if needed

Quality checks before assembly

• Cotton test around rim and bail—no snags.
• Hang test—pendant faces forward and doesn’t roll.
• Seam test—solder line clean; jump ring closes past center with no gap.

Hardware and chain selection for a straight, comfortable hang

Choose jump ring size and gauge to match pendant weight and bail opening. A second, small “articulation” ring can help pendants with large bails hang straight. Chain thickness should complement the pendant scale.

Hardware quick reference

Pendant mass	Jump ring	Chain	Notes
Light (<8 g)	4 mm, 22 ga	1.2–1.4 mm cable	Single ring sufficient
Medium (8–15 g)	5 mm, 20 ga	1.4–1.8 mm cable	Consider double-ring articulation
Heavy (>15 g)	6 mm, 18–20 ga	2.0 mm cable/cord	Split ring or soldered ring for security

Project recipe A — Minimal round brass pendant with hidden tube bail

Materials

• Brass sheet 0.9–1.0 mm, brass tube ID ~2 mm, 5 mm jump ring, fine cable chain.

Steps

1. Cut Ø 28–30 mm circle; file and sand to 800 grit.
2. Lightly dome; mask face; solder 5 mm tube behind top center.
3. Finish to satin or mirror; thread chain; verify glide and hang.

Tips

• Keep tube perfectly horizontal; even tiny tilts show when worn.

Project recipe B — Oval copper pendant with hammered sparkle

Materials

• Copper sheet 1.0 mm, 5 mm ring (20 ga), rawhide mallet, ball-peen hammer.

Steps

1. Cut 24×32 mm oval; dome slightly.
2. Planish with light, overlapping blows for an even sparkle.
3. Solder ring; patina (optional); burnish high spots; assemble.

Avoid

• Deep hammer marks near edges—can thin the rim and cause waves.

Project recipe C — Sterling teardrop with chased highlight line

Materials

• Sterling sheet 0.8–1.0 mm, liner/chasing tool, 5 mm ring, polishing cloth.

Steps

1. Cut 34 mm teardrop; refine to crisp symmetry.
2. Chase a shallow curve ~3 mm inside the edge; polish lightly.
3. Solder ring; final finish; assemble.

Pro tip

• Chase over pitch or leather so the line stays clean without stretching the face.

Troubleshooting common beginner issues

Problem	Likely cause	Fix now	Prevent next time
Blade breaks often	Too much pressure; poor tension	Slow down; re-tension; add lube	Short, vertical strokes; pivot the work
Wavy edges after sanding	No block support; uneven strokes	Re-file to straight; re-sand on a block	Always use a hard backer under paper
Pendant tilts on chain	Bail off-center; ring too small	Re-solder/re-drill; use larger ring	Mark centerline; test-hang before finishing
Solder blob visible	Too much solder or overheating	Wick, file, refinish	Tiny pallions; heat the mass, not the chip
Sharp rim scratches skin	No micro-bevel; skipped grits	Return to 800; add back bevel	Cotton test; finish through 1500–3000

Safety and bench habits for handmaking metal pendants

• Eye protection for sawing, drilling, and soldering; tie hair; no loose sleeves.
• Ventilate when heating; use jewelry-safe pickle; label chemicals clearly.
• Keep “dirty” (saw/file) and “clean” (finish/assembly) zones separate.
• Quench and pickle only when metal is no longer glowing; tongs only—no hands.

Material planner and cut list (copy for your bench)

Design	Size	Metal & gauge	Bail method	Finish	Hardware	Notes
Round minimal	Ø 28–30 mm	Brass 1.0 mm	Hidden tube	Satin/mirror	5 mm ring, cable chain	Mask face during soldering
Hammered oval	24×32 mm	Copper 1.0 mm	Soldered ring	Hammered + patina	5 mm ring, chain	Light, even blows
Teardrop chased	~34 mm tall	Silver 0.9 mm	Soldered ring	Mirror with highlight line	5 mm ring, fine chain	Chase on pitch

Practice drills to build confidence and speed

• Saw control: cut three identical circles; measure variance with calipers (≤0.3 mm goal).
• Edge uniformity: file one straight edge, then sand through 400→1200 without rounding corners.
• Bail alignment: solder three tube/rings on scrap discs; all must hang straight on a thread.
• Texture discipline: create a swatch card: hammered, chased, stamped—note spacing and force.

Complete start-to-finish checklist for a handmade metal pendant

1. Choose metal and thickness that suit your silhouette and finish goals.
2. Draft the shape; mark centerline and bail position; define safe zones.
3. Saw just proud of the line; pierce interiors via pilot holes.
4. File to the line; sand 400→1200; add a back micro-bevel.
5. Apply controlled texture (optional) and/or a gentle dome.
6. Prepare and solder bail (ring or tube); pickle, rinse, neutralize.
7. Drill/slot alternatives if no solder; deburr and refine.
8. Finish: 1500→3000, then satin or polish; patina & seal if desired.
9. Install jump ring and chain; perform hang, seam, and cotton tests.
10. Log sizes, ring gauges, and finish sequence for repeatable results.