DIY acrylic pendants: colorful and lightweight jewelry ideas

This step-by-step tutorial shows how to design, cut, drill, finish, decorate, and assemble acrylic pendants that are light, durable, and comfortable to wear. You will choose the right acrylic (cast vs. extruded), plan thickness and silhouette, cut cleanly with hand tools, drill crisp holes without cracks, sand and polish edges, layer colors and inlays, apply paints or foils with masking, and attach hardware for a tidy, professional finish. Eight inline diagrams illustrate key steps exactly where they’re used.

Understanding acrylic: cast vs. extruded, thickness, and color choices

Acrylic comes in two common types—cast and extruded—and a wide range of colors and finishes (transparent, translucent, opaque, glitter, mirror, frosted). For jewelry, cast acrylic is typically the best option: it machines and polishes more cleanly and resists crazing when drilled. Extruded acrylic is softer and more prone to melting at the cut edge, making it trickier for new makers.

Which acrylic for which design

Design goal	Best acrylic	Why	Notes
Crisp shapes, polished edges	Cast	Harder, clean cuts, good polish	Ideal for simple silhouettes, geometric forms
Budget practice pieces	Extruded	Cheaper, easy to score/snap	Use slower feed; extra sanding time
Layered color inlays	Cast + cast	Better solvent-bonding surface	Test small offcuts for fit before bonding
Frosted or matte look	Cast (frosted sheet)	Even finish from factory	Alternatively, scuff polish with 1000–2000 grit

Recommended thickness for comfort and strength

• 2.0–2.5 mm: delicate small pendants, layered insets, pairs well with fine chain.
• 3.0 mm: standard pendant thickness; balances strength and weight.
• 4.0 mm: bold silhouettes or large shapes; bevel edges for skin comfort.

Safe cutting methods: score & snap, jeweler’s saw, scroll saw, and rotary trimming

A clean cut is the foundation of a professional-looking pendant. Choose a method based on shape complexity and your tools. Keep the protective film on during cutting and drilling to minimize scratches. Clamp gently with soft jaws or felt to avoid pressure marks.

Score & snap (for straight cuts)

1. Mark the cut line; clamp a straightedge.
2. Score firmly with an acrylic knife 6–10 passes until a deep groove forms.
3. Hang the scored line over a table edge and snap downward with steady pressure.
4. True the edge with 400–600 grit before templating or further cutting.

Jeweler’s saw (tight curves and small shapes)

• Use fine-tooth blades (e.g., #2/0 to #4/0). Keep strokes slow and vertical.
• Support the work on a V-board; rotate the piece instead of forcing the blade.

Scroll saw (repeatable shapes)

• Fit a high-TPI blade designed for plastics; low speed reduces melting.
• Feed steadily; pause if the kerf looks glossy (heat build-up).

Rotary tool trimming (refine edges)

• Use plastic-safe spiral burrs or drum sanders at low RPM; keep the bit moving.
• Finish by hand—power tools are for rough shaping, not final polish.

Design planning: templates, hole placement, and bail alignment

Before cutting small shapes, create a paper or cardstock template to test scale and chain hang. Mark the bail location and hole distance from edges. A pendant hangs straight when the hole or bail aligns with the silhouette’s visual center of gravity, not always its geometric center.

Hole placement rules for strength

• Keep the hole center at least 2× the hole diameter from any edge.
• For 2–3 mm thick acrylic, a 2.0–2.5 mm hole suits most 4–5 mm rings.
• Use a center punch (light mark) through masking to prevent bit skating.

Bail options

• Through-hole + jump ring: clean and minimal.
• Glue-on bail: fast; make sure the back is flat and degreased.
• Hidden slotted bail: cut a short slot and bond a small metal loop inside for a floating look.

Drilling acrylic cleanly: step bits, pecking, and cooling

Crisp holes elevate the final look. Acrylic cracks when drilled too fast, too hot, or with aggressive bits. Mask both faces with tape; clamp between two scrap boards to support the exit hole.

Drilling sequence

1. Mark and lightly center punch through masking.
2. Use a small pilot (1.0–1.5 mm) at low RPM; peck (in–out) to clear chips.
3. Switch to a step bit or plastic bit and slowly enlarge to final size.
4. Deburr with a hand countersink or spin the bit lightly by hand to soften edges.

Tips

• Keep speed low and pressure light—white powdery chips indicate a good cut; sticky strings indicate melting.
• Dip the bit in water between passes if heat builds.

Edge finishing: wet sanding, micro-mesh, and flame polishing (optional)

Edges define comfort and quality. Work through wet sanding grits to remove saw marks and produce a satin or glass finish. Flame polishing gives brilliant gloss but requires practice; overdoing it can craze the surface. For most jewelry, a micro-mesh finish plus buffing looks refined and is safer.

Recommended progression

Stage	Grit	Goal	Notes
Level	400–600	Remove saw marks	Use a sanding block to keep edges square
Refine	800–1200	Close scratches	Keep wet; light pressure
Pre-polish	1500–3000	Silky edge	Wipe slurry frequently
Gloss	Micro-mesh 4000–12000	Glass-like edge	Optionally buff with compound

Flame polishing cautions

• Use a small butane flame; pass quickly 1–2 times; never dwell.
• Keep the protective film on faces; expose only the edge if possible.
• Skip flame on extruded acrylic—higher risk of crazing.

Color and surface treatments: masking, paint fills, foils, and inlays

Acrylic is a perfect canvas for color. Use masking and stencil film to create sharp paint fields, or cut thin inlay pieces and solvent-bond them for a seamless look. Metallic leaf or adhesive foils add pop; transparent dyes and alcohol inks create stained-glass effects on frosted sheets.

Masking & paint fill

1. Leave protective film on; add painter’s tape or stencil film where needed.
2. Cut your design lines with a sharp craft blade; lift only the zones to be painted.
3. Apply thin acrylic paint or specialized plastic paint; multiple thin coats beat one heavy coat.
4. Peel masking after tack; allow full cure before handling.

Foil and leaf

• Apply adhesive size to masked zones; lay leaf/foil; burnish and seal with a clear compatible finish.

Inlay basics

• Cut inlay piece slightly oversized; sand to a press fit.
• Use acrylic solvent cement (capillary action) sparingly; support flat until cured.

Hardware and assembly: jump rings, bails, chains, and cord options

Comfortable hardware finishes the piece. Choose ring size and gauge to match hole diameter and pendant weight. File ring seams smooth if needed, and close rings by twisting past center for a gapless joint.

Hardware reference

Element	Typical size	Best for	Notes
Jump ring	4–5 mm (20–22 ga)	Through-hole bails	Double up for heavier pendants
Split ring	5–6 mm	High-stress mounts	Resists opening better than jump rings
Glue-on bail	Pad ~6–8 mm	Flat-backed pendants	Degrease back; minimal adhesive
Chain	1.2–1.8 mm cable	Small to medium pendants	Lobster + extender for sizing
Cord	1.5–2.0 mm waxed cotton	Casual look	Sliding knots or end caps

Assembly checklist

• Remove protective film last; degrease with isopropyl on edges only.
• Install bail/ring; confirm the pendant hangs straight on a bust.
• Add chain or cord; check clasp operation and seam closure.

Project 1: Minimal glossy circle with soft back bevel

Materials

• Cast acrylic, 3.0 mm, opaque or translucent; circle template 28–36 mm.
• Step bits (pilot + 2.0–2.5 mm), wet-dry papers (400→3000), micro-mesh.
• Jump ring 4–5 mm (20–22 ga), chain 1.4–1.6 mm, lobster + extender.

Steps

1. Cut circle with a hole saw designed for plastics or saw by hand and sand to template.
2. Drill pilot then final hole; deburr.
3. Wet-sand edges to 3000; add a soft back bevel; micro-mesh to gloss.
4. Install ring and chain; hang-check.

Tips

• For translucent sheets, leave a satin edge (stop at 1200–1500) for a frosted glow.

Project 2: Two-color inlay bar pendant

Materials

• Two cast acrylic colors, 3.0 mm; solvent cement; sanding block; masking tape.
• Scroll saw or jeweler’s saw; step bits; clamps; micro-mesh.

Steps

1. Cut a 40×12 mm bar base. Mark a 6–8 mm stripe window; cut out carefully.
2. Cut the contrasting inlay strip slightly oversize; sand to a snug press fit.
3. Bond with solvent cement; weight flat; cure per product guidance.
4. True the edges, drill hole, finish edges, and assemble.

Tips

• Add a micro 0.5 mm chamfer around the inlay window for a fitted look.

Project 3: Transparent “stained glass” teardrop

Materials

• Cast acrylic, 3.0–4.0 mm, clear or tinted; frosted film or etched sheet (optional).
• Alcohol inks or transparent dyes; stencil film; UV resin for doming (optional).

Steps

1. Cut a 40–45 mm teardrop; drill top hole.
2. Mask geometric cells; apply transparent color thinly; let dry between colors.
3. Optional: apply a thin UV-resin dome to the face for gloss depth; cure fully.
4. Finish edges satin or gloss; assemble with a small ring and fine chain.

Tips

• Keep colors inside by burnishing mask edges firmly to prevent bleed.

Troubleshooting common acrylic pendant issues

Problem	Likely cause	Fix now	Prevent next time
Edge chips at cut	Too aggressive feed; dull blade	Sand out chips; re-square edge	Use fine-tooth blade; slower feed
Melty, glossy kerf	High RPM/heat	Let cool; re-saw or sand	Lower speed; pause to cool
Cracks at hole	Drilled too fast; hole near edge	Stop; re-make piece if cracked	Step bits, pecking; keep 2× diameter from edge
Paint bleed under mask	Poor adhesion; heavy coat	Clean up with blade; re-mask, thin coats	Degrease; burnish mask; multiple thin coats
Glue-on bail lifts	Oily surface; thick adhesive	Remove; degrease; rebond minimal glue	Light scuff + degrease; clamp lightly

Quality checks before first wear

1. Edge comfort test: rub a soft cotton cloth around all edges—no snags.
2. Hang test: pendant faces forward; does not roll on the chain.
3. Seam test: jump ring seam is gapless and smooth to the touch.
4. Scratch scan: under bright light, faces are free of sanding haze and handling marks.

Care and longevity for acrylic pendants

• Wipe with a soft microfiber; avoid solvents like acetone or alcohol on painted/foiled areas.
• Store separately to prevent scuffs; use a pouch or soft compartment.
• Last on, first off: avoid spraying perfume or hairspray near the pendant.

Material planner and cut list

Design	Size	Thickness	Acrylic type	Hole	Hardware	Finishing	Notes
Glossy circle	Ø 32–36 mm	3.0 mm	Cast (opaque/translucent)	2.0–2.5 mm	4–5 mm ring, chain	400→micro-mesh, back bevel	Stop at satin for frosted look
Inlay bar	40×12 mm	3.0 mm	Cast ×2 colors	2.0–2.5 mm	5 mm ring, chain	Bonded inlay, gloss	Press-fit before bonding
Stained glass tear	45×30 mm	3.0–4.0 mm	Cast clear/frosted	2.0–2.5 mm	4 mm ring, chain	Paint/dye, optional dome	Mask carefully to prevent bleed

Practice drills to build confidence

• Straight cut + square edge: score/snap three strips and square edges to a template.
• Hole clean-up: drill 10 holes with pilot + step bit; inspect for haze or chips; adjust speed.
• Edge finish: take one offcut from 600→12000 micro-mesh; compare gloss levels.
• Masking control: paint a two-color block on scrap; aim for razor-clean lines.

Glossary

Term	Meaning	Where it matters
Cast acrylic	Acrylic polymerized in molds; harder surface	Cleaner cuts, better polish
Extruded acrylic	Acrylic pushed through dies; softer	Budget practice, more melting risk
Step bit	Conical bit with steps to enlarge holes gradually	Crack-free drilling
Solvent cement	Liquid that fuses acrylic parts	Inlays and layered builds
Micro-mesh	Very fine abrasive pads (4k–12k)	Glass-like edge finish

Complete step-by-step summary checklist

1. Choose acrylic (cast for clean machining) and thickness (2.5–4.0 mm).
2. Template the silhouette; mark bail centerline and hole distance from edges.
3. Cut using score/snap for straight lines; jeweler’s or scroll saw for curves.
4. Refine edges with a rotary tool (low RPM), then wet-sand 400→1200.
5. Drill pilot and final hole with step bits; deburr and soften edges.
6. Finish edges to satin or gloss (micro-mesh); optional quick flame pass (experienced makers only).
7. Add color: masking + paint, foil/leaf accents, or bonded inlays; allow full cure.
8. Install bail/jump ring; add chain or cord; perform hang, seam, and comfort tests.
9. Record sizes, hole diameters, ring gauges, and finish sequence for repeatable results.