How to make a stunning silver pendant step by step

This tutorial presents a practical, bench-tested process to design, fabricate, finish, and assemble a sterling silver pendant that wears comfortably and looks refined.

You will plan proportions, pick materials, prepare sheet and wire, pierce the silhouette, dome for stiffness, solder a tube bail, refine surfaces with textures, optionally set a small stone, then polish and assemble on a matching chain. Eight inline diagrams are placed exactly where you need them.

Design, proportions, and project scope

Before you touch the metal, define the pendant’s silhouette, thickness, and bail strategy. A clean concept speeds fabrication and prevents late-stage compromises. Decide whether you want a medallion, a soft teardrop, or a geometric bar. For everyday comfort, keep the longest dimension between 18–28 mm and maintain enough thickness in the bail corridor to resist wear.

Sketching and scale planning

1. Draw 1:1 silhouettes inside a 20–25 mm guide. Mark the intended bail center point and any negative spaces you plan to pierce.
2. Balance mass: leave slightly more thickness near the top third (where the bail sits). This reduces flipping on the chain.
3. Decide on a dominant surface finish (brushed, hammered, stippled) and reserve a small polished accent for contrast.

Proportion checklist

• Overall height × width planned within a 20–25 mm envelope.
• Bail opening sized to chain/cord (typical tube inner diameter 2.0–3.0 mm).
• Minimum wall near bail: ≥1.0 mm sheet or reinforced with a tube bail.

Materials: sterling silver choices and consumables

Sterling (.925) balances workability and strength. Sheet thickness between 0.8–1.2 mm suits most pendants in the 18–28 mm range. Use seamless silver tube for a clean bail, or form a rolled bail from sheet if you prefer an integrated look. Stock both medium and easy solder; medium for the tube bail, easy for later attachments.

Quick selection table

Component	Recommended spec	Notes
Pendant body	Sterling sheet 0.8–1.2 mm	Thicker sheet = stiffer + more forgiving finish
Tube bail	Seamless tube ID 2.0–3.0 mm	Match chain; file ends square, keep bore clean
Solder	Medium & Easy (hard optional)	Use higher-flow solder first, lower last
Flux	Borax-based paste or liquid	Protects join and encourages flow

Safety and efficient bench setup

Keep the soldering area insulated and ventilated. Maintain a clean bench pin for predictable saw control. Use safety glasses at the saw and torch, and keep water for quenching and baking soda for neutralizing pickle nearby. Organize abrasives by grit to avoid cross-contamination.

Best practices

• Dedicated trays for clean vs. dirty abrasives; label grits.
• Use a third hand for tube bail soldering to prevent misalignment.
• Neutralize pieces after the pickle before touching steel tools.

Layout, piercing, and filing the silhouette

Accurate sawing makes finishing fast. Transfer your 1:1 sketch to the sheet with a glue stick or tracing film. If your design includes piercings (negative spaces), saw those first while the sheet is still large for support. Saw the outer line last, then refine with files to achieve flawless symmetry.

Piercing sequence

1. Center-punch any interior holes; drill pilot holes with a fine bit (0.8–1.0 mm) for blade entry.
2. Thread the saw blade through, tension, wax lightly, and pierce interior shapes.
3. Saw the outer silhouette with long, smooth strokes; follow slightly outside the line for filing allowance.

Filing routine for crisp edges

• Use a half-round file to refine curves; keep strokes in a single direction per session.
• Switch to needle files for tight radii; maintain perpendicular faces.
• Break the back edge slightly for comfort (micro-chamfer).

Doming and work-hardening for strength

A subtle dome stiffens the pendant without adding weight. Use a dapping block and matching punch to create a gentle curvature (especially effective for medallions and ovals). Doming also adds light play across brushed or hammered textures.

Doming steps

1. Deburr the blank; place face-down in a shallow dapping cavity.
2. Tap lightly with a rawhide mallet or wooden punch, rotating frequently.
3. Check curvature against a flat surface; aim for a slight dish, not a bowl.

Notes

• Doming first, then soldering: helps the tube bail saddle nicely against the curve.
• Reflatten only if necessary; over-correction leaves wavy edges.

Soldering a clean tube bail

A tube bail gives a modern, durable connection and lets chains glide silently. Square and deburr the tube ends, align carefully on the dome’s tangent, and solder with medium solder. Clean the bore after soldering so no solder burr abrades the chain.

Tube bail prep

1. Cut tube to length (typically 8–12 mm) with a fine saw; file both ends square.
2. Lightly sand the tube’s underside to match the dome’s curve (a soft saddle).
3. Flux both surfaces; position with a third hand; place small medium-solder chips along the joint.

Soldering and cleanup

1. Heat the pendant body broadly, then focus near the joint; watch the solder flash and flow.
2. Quench, pickle, rinse, and neutralize; ream the tube bore with a broach or round file.
3. Check alignment from front and side; correct while metal is still at stress-free state after a brief reheat if needed.

Surface refinement: sanding, textures, patina, and accents

Finishing defines the pendant’s character. Choose one dominant texture, then use a small polished or brushed accent to guide the eye. Complete texture work before final polish—polish softens edges and can blur stipple detail. Patina emphasizes recesses and makes textures pop on sterling.

Sanding progression

1. 400 → 600 → 800 → 1200 grit, changing stroke direction at each step.
2. Use fresh paper for the final pass; contamination leaves deep scratches.
3. Micro-chamfer the back edge and bail interior.

Texture options

• Brushed grain: straight, even strokes with fine emery or Scotch-Brite.
• Hammered facets: light planishing taps on a steel block; rotate piece for even sparkle.
• Stippled matte: light round-bur taps; follow with a soft brush wheel.

Patina plan

• Apply liver-of-sulfur; rinse; selectively repolish high spots.
• Seal with microcrystalline wax for a low, durable sheen.

Optional: a flush-set accent stone (1.5–2.0 mm)

A tiny flush-set stone adds a quiet highlight without snag risk. Plan wall thickness ≥1.2 mm at the setting point. Drill perpendicular to the face, create a seat with a setting bur, and burnish evenly. Practice on scrap first; over-burnished edges can distort the face.

Flush setting steps

1. Mark the stone location within the lower third; avoid the bail corridor.
2. Drill a pilot, enlarge with a setting bur to stone diameter; test fit.
3. Seat the stone level; burnish rim gently until the girdle disappears; clean excess metal carefully.

Common errors

• Seat off-level → re-cut the seat and reset; do not force a tilted stone.
• Ragged rim → refine with a sharp graver then repolish.

Polishing: bringing the silver to life

Polish last and lightly to preserve crisp geometry. Use separate buffs for pre-polish and final polish. Keep heat down—thin sections can soften and move under aggressive polishing. Clean thoroughly between compounds to avoid streaking and grit scratches.

Polish sequence

1. Pre-polish with a medium compound on a firm wheel to remove micro-scratches.
2. Final polish with a light compound on a soft wheel; keep edges moving.
3. Ultrasonic or warm soapy rinse; dry completely; wax if using patina.

Assembly: jump ring, chain or cord pairing, and fit tests

Choose a chain that matches scale and finish: fine cable for minimal medallions, box chain for geometric bars, waxed cotton or leather for organic textures. Size the jump ring to the bail and chain gauge; solder it closed for daily-wear durability.

Compatibility table

Pendant style	Chain/cord	Jump-ring size	Finish pairing	Notes
Medallion 20–24 mm	Cable 1.2–1.6 mm	4–5 mm, 20–22 ga	Brushed face + polished rim	Solder closed for daily wear
Geometric bar	Box 1.5–2.0 mm	4–5 mm, 20–22 ga	Linear brush	Hidden back loop hangs flat
Organic teardrop	Waxed cotton 1.5–2.0 mm	5–6 mm, 18–20 ga	Stipple + patina recess	Tube bail prevents cord wear

Quality control and comfort checks

Quality checks prevent returns and ensure daily comfort. Inspect the bail for burrs, confirm the hang angle, and perform snag and glide tests. The pendant should face forward on the chain without flipping; if it flips, adjust the bail position slightly backward or widen the tube.

Five essential tests

1. Hang test: pendant faces forward; no rolling on a standard chain.
2. Glide test: chain slides silently through the bail; no rattling from solder burrs.
3. Tug test: firm pull on the jump ring shows no gap; soldered ring holds.
4. Snag test: cotton cloth passes cleanly over edges and textures.
5. Balance test: pendant rests level on a flat surface; no warped edges.

Troubleshooting and fixes

Most issues trace back to alignment, insufficient cleanup, or rushed finishing. Use the table below to diagnose quickly and correct with minimal rework.

Symptom	Likely cause	Quick fix	Prevent next time
Pendant flips on chain	Bail too far forward or narrow	Shift bail rearward; widen tube ID	Mark center-of-mass in sketch; test on mockup
Chain catches or squeaks	Solder burr in tube bore	Ream with broach; polish inside bail	Use less solder; mask bore with graphite
Visible scratches post-polish	Skipped grit or dirty wheel	Back up one grit; clean wheels	Separate abrasives; wipe between steps
Patina blotchy	Oils on surface; uneven prep	Degrease; reapply; polish highlights	Glove handling; consistent texture
Stone not level (flush)	Seat off-axis; wall too thin	Re-cut seat; burnish evenly	Plan ≥1.2 mm wall; drill perpendicular

Example build: 22 mm brushed oval with tube bail and optional 2 mm flush-set

This example ties the steps together for a balanced, modern pendant suitable for daily wear on a fine cable chain.

Materials

• Sterling sheet 1.0 mm, oval 22 × 16 mm
• Sterling tube bail, ID 2.5 mm, length 10 mm
• Medium solder for bail, easy solder for jump ring
• Optional: 2.0 mm round stone

Process

1. Sketch at 1:1; place bail in top third; mark optional stone at lower third.
2. Transfer, pierce (if any interior holes), saw silhouette, and file to symmetry.
3. Dome lightly on the dapping block; check curvature.
4. Prep tube: square, deburr, soft saddle; flux and solder with medium solder.
5. Pickle, neutralize, ream bore; confirm alignment from two axes.
6. Set surface: horizontal brushed grain plus polished edge rim.
7. (Optional) Flush-set 2 mm stone: drill, cut seat, burnish rim gently.
8. Final polish (light), clean, apply patina if desired, wax-seal.
9. Attach 4.5 mm jump ring (20–22 ga); solder closed; thread a 1.4 mm cable chain.
10. Run hang, glide, tug, snag, and balance tests; adjust if needed.

Practice drills to sharpen technique

Short, focused practice pushes quality up quickly and reduces time spent fixing errors on finished work.

15-minute drills

• Cut three 20 mm circles in scrap silver; file to perfect symmetry; compare edges under raking light.
• Make two tube bail samples: solder to copper ovals, ream interior to silent glide.
• Texture swatches: hammered, brushed, stippled—patina, then repolish highlights to compare looks.
• Do a flush-setting test on 1.2 mm sheet with a 2 mm stone; note wall behavior.

Materials planner and cut list

This planner estimates common dimensions and pairings for three pendant archetypes. Adjust values after your first test piece—your dapping depth and polishing pressure affect final feel.

Design	Body (sheet)	Size (H × W)	Bail	Surface plan	Chain match	Notes
Minimal medallion	1.0 mm sterling	22 × 22 mm	Tube ID 2.5 mm	Brushed face + polished rim	Cable 1.4 mm	Subtle dome for stiffness
Soft teardrop	0.9–1.1 mm sterling	24 × 16 mm	Tube ID 2.0–2.5 mm	Stipple center + patina	Waxed cotton 1.5 mm	Keep bail corridor thick
Geometric bar	1.2 mm sterling	26 × 8 mm	Hidden back loop	Linear brush	Box 1.6–2.0 mm	Bevel edges for comfort

Complete step-by-step summary checklist

1. Define silhouette and bail strategy; sketch at 1:1 with bail in the top third.
2. Select sterling sheet thickness (0.8–1.2 mm) and tube bail ID to match chain/cord.
3. Transfer design; drill pilots for piercings; saw interior first, then outer silhouette.
4. File for symmetry; micro-chamfer back edge; clean saw marks.
5. Lightly dome to add stiffness; check curve and correct gently.
6. Prep and solder tube bail with medium solder; pickle, neutralize, and ream bore.
7. Sand 400→1200 in alternating directions; choose a dominant texture.
8. (Optional) Flush set a 1.5–2.0 mm stone on a well-supported wall.
9. Patina recesses; repolish highlights; wax-seal if desired.
10. Attach and solder a matching jump ring; thread the chain or cord.
11. Run hang, glide, tug, snag, and balance tests; refine any burrs or misalignment.
12. Record final dimensions, bail ID, chain pairing, and finish notes for repeatable results.