Making a shark tooth necklace for a unique ocean-inspired look

Making a shark tooth necklace for a unique ocean-inspired look

This hands-on tutorial teaches you how to transform a loose shark tooth into a comfortable, durable necklace with a clean, minimalist finish. You will choose and prepare a tooth, select cord or chain and the right hardware, decide between a no-drill wrap or a micro-drilled bail, build a tidy bail or wire frame, attach a clasp or sliding knot, and run simple quality checks. Eight inline diagrams illustrate the exact steps where they belong.

Essential kit for a shark tooth necklace A neat layout shows tooth, pliers, round nose, flush cutters, 22–24ga wire, cord/leather, tiny drill and water dish, bails/jump rings, epoxy/CA glue, and polishing pads. Round/chain pliers + flush cutters Wire 22–24 ga, jump rings, bails Shark tooth (clean), polishing pads, micro files Mini drill + diamond bit, water dish Cord: waxed cotton/hemp/leather or fine chain Adhesive: two-part epoxy or CA (gel)
Diagram 1 — Gather a clean tooth, simple jeweler’s pliers, fine wire, cord or chain, tiny drill and bit, basic findings, and gentle finishing supplies.

Choosing the tooth, scale, and necklace length

Comfort and visual balance start with scale. A 20–35 mm crown height feels wearable for most adults; smaller reads subtle, larger is statement. Match tooth size to chain or cord thickness so the pendant hangs centered and doesn’t flip.

Quick size guidance

  • Small teeth (12–18 mm): delicate, suit 1.0–1.5 mm cord or slim chain.
  • Medium teeth (20–28 mm): versatile, suit 1.5–2.0 mm cord or 1.2–1.6 mm chain.
  • Large teeth (30–40 mm): statement, suit 2.0–2.5 mm cord or sturdy chain.

Necklace length and drape

  • Choker (35–40 cm / 14–16″): tooth rides high; choose small/light teeth.
  • Princess (43–48 cm / 17–19″): the most balanced spot for a single tooth.
  • Matinée (50–60 cm / 20–24″): relaxed drape; useful when the tooth is larger.

Length planner

Style Final length Hardware allowance Working cord/chain Tooth size match
Choker 38 cm 2.0–2.5 cm 35.5–36 cm 12–18 mm tooth
Princess 46 cm 2.5 cm 43.5 cm 20–28 mm tooth
Matinée 55 cm 2.5 cm 52.5 cm 28–35 mm tooth
Length map and tooth scale Front silhouette with arcs for common lengths; three tooth silhouettes scale from small to large at the pendant zone. Choker Princess Matinée
Diagram 2 — Check drape and tooth scale visually before you commit to hardware or drilling.

Tooth preparation: cleaning, smoothing, and sealing

Most ethically sourced teeth are already clean. Still, rinse gently, remove grit around serrations, and polish high spots so the tooth sits comfortably against skin and does not chew through a cord.

Prep sequence

  1. Rinse in warm water; lightly brush with a soft toothbrush.
  2. Spot-sand rough edges with 800–1200 grit micro pads; avoid flattening character lines.
  3. Optional: apply a thin archival microcrystalline wax, buff soft; this enhances sheen and helps resist moisture.

Dos and don’ts

  • Do keep sanding minimal and even.
  • Don’t soak in harsh chemicals; they embrittle dentin and enamel.
  • Do test any sealant on the back first; avoid glossy buildup.
Tooth prep: clean, smooth, and buff Three panels depict a rinse and soft brush, micro-sanding of an edge, and a gentle cloth buff. Rinse + soft brush Micro-sand edges Buff lightly
Diagram 3 — Minimal prep: clean, smooth sharp points, and buff for a skin-friendly finish.

Choosing mounting method: no-drill wrap vs. micro-drilled bail

Two reliable paths exist. No-drill wire wrap preserves the tooth intact, lashing the root with a low-profile frame that carries a bail. Micro-drilled bail creates a discreet hole at the root’s thickest area for a tiny jump ring or wire guard; this can look very clean but requires careful wet drilling.

Decision table

Method Best for Pros Watch-outs
No-drill wrap Thin/small teeth; collectors Reversible; zero drilling; decorative wire Requires tidy wrapping; wire ends must be tucked
Micro-drilled bail Thicker roots; clean minimalist look Very secure; minimal hardware visible Risk of cracking if drilled dry or too close to edge
Two mounting paths Left shows a wrapped root with a wire bail; right shows a tiny drilled hole with a jump ring. No-drill wrap + bail Micro-drilled ring
Diagram 4 — Decide early: reversible wrap or tiny hole and ring. Both can be subtle and strong.

No-drill wire wrap: low-profile frame with integrated bail

Wrapping holds the root securely and adds a subtle accent. Keep coils compact and symmetrical; a tidy wrap looks intentional, not bulky.

Materials

  • Wire: 22 ga for medium teeth (20–28 mm), 24 ga for small (12–18 mm), 20 ga for large (30–35 mm).
  • Round-nose and chain-nose pliers; flush cutters.
  • Optional: tiny dab of gel CA under the back coil for anti-slip (reversible with debonder).

Wrapping sequence

  1. Cut 25–35 cm of wire. Find the root’s “waist” where wrap can grip without sliding.
  2. Make a small loop (future bail) centered on the wire using round-nose pliers; leave 8–10 mm neck under the loop.
  3. Place loop above the root. Cross both tails behind the tooth and bring them to the front.
  4. Coil each tail in opposite directions around the root 2–3 times, staying tight and parallel.
  5. Tuck ends neatly on the back; burnish with chain pliers to remove snag points.

Tips for a clean look

  • Keep the loop axis aligned with the tooth’s centerline for a straight hang.
  • Avoid stacking wire high; two neat coils look better than four loose ones.
No-drill wrap steps Four simplified frames: create loop, cross behind, coil left/right, and tuck ends flush. Form bail Cross behind Coil both sides Tuck + burnish
Diagram 5 — A minimal wrap grips the root and carries a centered bail without drilling.

Micro-drilling the root for a tiny jump ring

Drilling gives an ultra-clean look. It must be slow and wet to avoid heat cracks. Aim for the thickest, most mineral-dense part of the root and stay a safe distance from edges.

Safety and setup

  • Use a diamond micro bit (0.8–1.2 mm) and a low-RPM rotary tool.
  • Submerge the drilling area just under the water surface in a shallow dish to cool and capture dust.
  • Support the tooth on a piece of dense foam to avoid stress points.

Drilling steps

  1. Mark the spot at least 1.5–2× hole diameter from the nearest edge.
  2. Start at a slight angle to create a divot; then level and drill through with gentle pulses.
  3. Deburr by lightly spinning the bit at the exit; rinse and pat dry.
  4. Fit a 4–5 mm jump ring (22–20 ga depending on tooth size); close the seam past center.

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Dry drilling (cracks enamel).
  • Trying to drill through very thin enamel tips—stay in the thick root.
  • Using oversize rings that crowd the tooth’s face.
Wet micro-drilling workflow Panels show water bath setup, shallow angle start, and a ring seated through a clean hole. Shallow water dish Start at angle Fit jump ring
Diagram 6 — Keep it wet and slow, drill in the thick root, and seat a ring just big enough for free movement.

Choosing cord or chain and a comfortable closure

A tooth reads organic on cord and crisp on chain. Pick based on comfort and style, but keep hardware reliable and snag-free.

Cord and chain options

Material Diameter Look/feel Best use Closure
Waxed cotton 1.5–2.0 mm Soft, matte Everyday wear Sliding knots or lobster
Hemp cord 1.0–1.8 mm Rustic, grippy Beachy look Surgeon’s knot + end caps
Leather 1.5–2.5 mm Supple, premium Medium/large teeth End caps + lobster
Fine cable chain 1.2–1.6 mm Minimal, bright Small/medium teeth Lobster + extender

Closures

  • Sliding knots: fully adjustable; great with cotton/hemp.
  • Lobster + extender: precise sizing; good for chain/leather.
  • Toggle: works if the necklace has some weight.
Closure styles Panels show sliding knots on cord, a lobster with extender on chain, and a toggle bar/ring. Sliding knots Lobster + extender Toggle
Diagram 7 — Pick a closure that matches the material and the weight of your tooth.

Assembly: from pendant to finished necklace

With the tooth mounted and the chain or cord chosen, assemble in a controlled order so spacing and comfort survive the transition from the bench to the neck.

Preparation

  1. Confirm tooth hang: it should face forward without twisting.
  2. Pre-open jump rings by twisting (never prying) for a gapless seam.
  3. Cut cord/chain to the working length; keep 2–3 cm allowance for clamps/end caps.

Assembly flow (chain)

  1. Attach pendant bail or drilled ring to chain center using a 4–5 mm jump ring; close past center.
  2. Install lobster and extender on ends with 4–5 mm rings; ensure ring seams are flush.
  3. Perform a “glide test” so the pendant moves freely along the chain without snags.

Assembly flow (cord)

  1. Thread pendant onto cord; center it.
  2. Choose sliding knots for adjustability, or glue-in end caps and add a lobster + extender.
  3. With end caps, scuff cord tips lightly, apply epoxy in caps, insert, and let cure fully.

Tips

  • On leather, avoid metal burrs on the bail that can abrade the cord.
  • On chain, choose ring sizes that don’t distort links.
Final assembly checkpoints Minimal sequence showing pendant on center, rings closed, closure attached, and a quick glide/balance test. Center pendant Close seams Attach closure Glide + balance
Diagram 8 — Center, close, connect, and test: a dependable finish that wears comfortably.

Detailed techniques: jump rings, bails, knots, and end caps

Jump-ring technique for gapless seams

  1. Hold with two pliers at 3 and 9 o’clock.
  2. Twist open a few degrees; never pull apart.
  3. Attach components; twist closed past center, then settle flush until you feel a slight “click.”

Minimalist bails

  • Wire bail: 22–20 ga; form, wrap 1–2 coils; file the cut end smooth.
  • Glue-on bail: roughen the back of the root gently; use a tiny epoxy dot; clamp softly and cure fully.

Knots for cord builds

  • Sliding knot (double overhand): creates an adjustable loop on each side.
  • Surgeon’s knot: good for permanent length setting before end caps.

End caps on leather

  1. Trial fit; trim square ends.
  2. Scuff 3–4 mm of cord; fill cap ~50% with epoxy.
  3. Insert, twist slightly, wipe squeeze-out, and cure per product timing.

Troubleshooting and fixes

Symptom Likely cause Fix now Prevent next time
Tooth tilts forward Bail too far back; ring too large Shift bail forward; reduce ring size Mock on cord/chain and test hang
Wrap slides Smooth root; coils too loose Rewrap tighter; micro dot of gel CA under back coil Find root “waist” for grip
Crack near drilled hole Dry drilling or too close to edge Stop; if hairline, stabilize with thin CA; otherwise retire Wet, low RPM; 1.5–2× diameter from edge
Cord frays at bail Burr on metal; sharp enamel edge File burr; micro-sand enamel contact point Run cloth test along all contact areas
Jump ring opens in wear Thin gauge; poor seam Replace with thicker or split ring; close past center Gauge-match to tooth size/weight

Quality control before first wear

Five fast checks catch 90% of issues:

  1. Seam test: nail across each ring seam; no gap or snag.
  2. Tug test: gentle pull on pendant, bail, and clasp; no shift.
  3. Glide test: pendant moves smoothly on chain/cord without catching.
  4. Balance test: pendant faces forward on a display bust and when walking.
  5. Skin test: rub a soft cotton cloth on all edges and hardware; nothing scratches.

Practice drills to gain confidence

Short drills build clean technique quickly.

  • Ring seams: open/close 20 rings; aim for invisible joints.
  • Wire wraps: practice bail loops with identical diameters; measure and note the round-nose position.
  • Wet drilling: drill 3–4 holes on shell or scrap tooth analog (bone or thick shell) to learn pressure and timing.

Materials reference and cut list

Build Tooth size Mounting Wire/ring Cord/chain Closure Notes
No-drill minimalist 20–28 mm Wire wrap + bail 22 ga wire; 4–5 mm ring Waxed cotton 1.5–2.0 mm Sliding knots Two neat coils per side
Drilled clean look 22–30 mm Wet drill at root 4–5 mm ring (20–22 ga) Cable chain 1.4–1.6 mm Lobster + extender Hole ≥3 mm from edge
Leather statement 28–35 mm Wrap or drilled 20 ga wire; 5–6 mm ring Leather 2.0–2.5 mm End caps + lobster File burrs; test comfort

Step-by-step summary checklist

  1. Select tooth (scale, condition); choose length (choker/princess/matinée).
  2. Prep tooth: clean, micro-sand sharp edges, optional wax buff.
  3. Pick mounting: no-drill wrap or wet micro-drill at the thick root.
  4. Build bail/wrap or drill and fit ring; ensure centered hang.
  5. Select cord or chain and closure (sliding knots, lobster + extender, or toggle).
  6. Assemble: attach pendant at center, install closure, close seams past center.
  7. Quality checks: seam, tug, glide, balance, and skin comfort tests.
  8. Record wire gauge, ring size, cord/chain type, and length for repeatable results.

Care and wear habits that protect the necklace

Simple routines keep a shark tooth necklace looking great. Last on when dressing, first off at night. Avoid prolonged water exposure (especially leather); wipe the tooth and hardware with a soft cloth after wear. Store flat or hanging so cords don’t kink and chain links don’t twist.

  • Keep away from hairspray, perfume, and sunscreens; apply and dry before wearing.
  • Inspect jump-ring seams monthly if worn daily.
  • Re-wax lightly if the tooth looks dull; buff gently with a soft microfiber.

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