Resin pendant making: clear, colorful, and creative designs

This complete, step-by-step guide explains how to design comfortable pendant sizes, choose the right resin system, mix without micro-bubbles, add transparent dyes, mica, and alcohol inks, embed botanicals and metallic leaf cleanly, pour in thin layers for clarity, cure safely, demold without distortion, sand and polish to a glass finish, and attach low-profile hardware that hangs straight and feels good on skin. Eight inline diagrams show the exact bench setup, thickness planning, colorant compatibility, mixing and bubble control, layered pour maps, inclusion placement, finishing ladders, and bail options.

Safety, workspace prep, and resin selection

Work in a ventilated area, wear nitrile gloves, and follow the resin manufacturer’s guidance. Protect your surface with a silicone mat; keep a small bin for contaminated wipes. Choose a resin made for jewelry—low viscosity and crystal clarity are essential.

Resin types and when to use them

Resin type	Pros	Watch-outs	Best for
Epoxy (1:1 or 2:1)	Low odor, long working time	May amber with UV; choose UV-stable	Clear, layered pendants, botanicals
PU (polyurethane)	Fast demold, excellent clarity	Humidity sensitive; short pot life	Quick batches, dyed translucents
UV resin	Cure on demand with lamp	Shallow pours only; can be brittle	Small charms, top coats

Bench setup checklist

• Ventilation and PPE (respirator if recommended for your resin).
• Silicone mat with molds taped level; dust cover/box for curing.
• Digital scale; warmed, sealed resin bottles in a lukewarm bath.

Choosing pendant molds, sizes, and comfortable thickness

Comfort and visual balance come from smart proportions. Most people like 25–40 mm tall pieces at 5–8 mm thick. Teardrops and rounds hang well; hexagons look crisp but need careful demolding.

Size and thickness planning

Shape	Typical size	Target thickness	Notes
Round	Ø 28–34 mm	5–7 mm	Great for floating effects
Teardrop	30–40 mm tall	6–8 mm	Elegant; easy to center a bail
Hexagon	25–32 mm	5–7 mm	Edges chip if rushed out

Colorants and effects: transparent dyes, alcohol inks, mica, and glitter

Each colorant behaves differently. Blend effects for depth: a transparent base, a translucent tint, pearlescent mica accents, and a restrained sparkle can read premium rather than busy.

Colorant compatibility quick guide

Colorant	Optical effect	Mixing ratio	Watch-outs	Best use
Transparent dye	Glass-like tint	Drop-wise to taste	Too much = dark, slow cure	Windows, gradients
Alcohol ink	Petri & marble effects	Micro-drops	Can cause soft spots; seal with clear cap	Cloud blooms, veining
Mica powder	Pearl shimmer	Pinch per 10–20 g	Settles if heavy; swirl lightly	Highlights, depth bands
Fine glitter	Sparkle points	Dusting only	Clumps near walls if overused	Accent layers

Mixing resin accurately: ratios, temperature, and pot life

Clarity starts at the cup. Warm bottles (sealed) in a lukewarm bath to lower viscosity. Weigh parts precisely. Stir slowly using a figure-eight motion while scraping sides and bottom for 2–3 minutes, then rest to let bubbles rise.

Mixing and timing sequence

1. Warm sealed bottles 5–10 minutes; dry them off.
2. Weigh parts to the gram; follow manufacturer ratio.
3. Stir slowly; scrape walls; rest 2–3 minutes.
4. Plan thin pours to stay within pot life; cover between steps.

Bubble control and surface levelling

Micro-bubbles hide in corners, around botanicals, and under ink blooms. Use a brief warm-air sweep (no open flame near alcohol inks), tap molds gently, and pre-wet inclusions with a veil of resin.

Bubble prevention do’s and don’ts

• Do pre-wet flowers and leaf before seating; they’ll outgas less.
• Do pour in thin 1–2 mm layers; resin degasses more easily.
• Don’t blast with a torch near inks—use warm air or a heat gun at a distance.

Layered pour strategies for clear, colorful resin pendants

Think in layers for consistent clarity. Use a clear “window” base, then build color and inclusions gradually so elements float rather than crowding the surface.

Layer-by-layer plan

1. Base window (1–2 mm): degas, let gel to a soft-tack.
2. Color veil: transparent dye or extremely thin mica wash.
3. Inclusions seat: pre-wet, place botanicals/leaf; press gently.
4. Effect pass (optional): alcohol ink micro-drops for blooms; allow diffusion.
5. Cap layer: fill to height; level with warm air.

Embedding botanicals, metallic leaf, and small charms

Dry inclusions thoroughly. Press botanicals onto a gel stage so they don’t float. Break gold/silver leaf into tiny flakes; press them flat to avoid creases telegraphing to the surface.

Placement tips

• Keep inclusions 1–2 mm away from mold walls and top surface.
• Use tweezers and a toothpick to nudge edges flat before capping.
• Test composition on paper first; symmetry helps pendants hang visually centered.

Curing schedules, demolding, and back-face refinement

Follow your resin’s cure times strictly. Cover molds to keep dust out. When firm, flex the silicone gently to break the seal, then peel back slowly. Flatten the back on wet sandpaper atop a glass plate.

Typical cure timeline (example)

Stage	Epoxy (1:1)	PU	Notes
Working time	25–45 min	10–20 min	Plan thin stacks
Gel for layering	30–90 min	8–12 min	Touch with toothpick corner only
Demold	12–24 h	1–3 h	Leave longer for thick pours
Full cure	48–72 h	24 h	Polish after full cure

Sanding and polishing to a glass-like finish

Wet-sand in a disciplined grit ladder, then polish with a plastic-safe compound. Keep the piece moving in straight strokes; rinse slurry between grits to avoid re-scratching.

Finishing ladder and goals

Stage	Grit / tool	Goal	Tip
Level	600–800	Flatten back, remove mold seam	Use a hard plate under paper
Refine	1000–1500	Close scratches	Rinse often
Pre-polish	2000–3000	Silky sheen	Light pressure
Polish	Plastic polish / compound	Glass clarity	Soft pad, low RPM by hand

Drilling, attaching bails, and clean hardware assembly

Choose a hardware method that matches your look and tools: glue-on bails for flat backs, drilled holes with jump rings for a minimal profile, or embedded tubes for a floating effect. Degrease before gluing; back the exit face when drilling to prevent chips.

Hardware options and sizing

Method	Hole/bail size	Ring gauge	Notes
Glue-on bail	Flat pad 6–10 mm	4–5 mm ring, 20–22 ga	Minimal adhesive; full cure before wear
Drilled-through	1.8–2.5 mm hole ~3 mm from edge	5 mm ring, 20 ga	Back exit face; deburr both sides
Embedded tube	ID ~2.0–2.5 mm	—	Seat during pour; align perfectly

Advanced coloring techniques: controlled blooms and lacing

Alcohol ink “petri” techniques create organic clouds; lacing uses a dense white to create web-like lines under a translucent color. Always cap with clear resin after effects settle.

Petri and lacing sequence

1. Color the mid-layer lightly with translucent dye.
2. Add micro-drops of ink; wait 10–30 seconds for diffusion.
3. Add a tiny white drop to push a bloom; stop early—overworking muddies color.
4. Cap with clear after the motion slows; avoid torches near alcohol.

Common errors

• Too many ink drops → muddy results; use fewer, spaced apart.
• Thick layers → trapped bubbles; keep each pour thin and patient.

Troubleshooting for clear, colorful resin pendants

Problem	Likely cause	Fix now	Prevent next time
Tacky surface	Off-ratio or cold cure	Warm post-cure; re-sand and repolish	Weigh precisely; condition bottles
Cloudy layer	Humidity (PU) or over-mixing air	Warm air pass; polish ladder	Slow stir; control humidity
Bubbles under petals	Unsealed botanicals; steep pour	Toothpick release; gentle heat	Pre-wet inclusions; thinner layers
Edge breakout	Leaf/flowers near wall	Sand flush; re-cap thinly	Keep 1–2 mm clearance
Yellowing over time	Low UV resistance	—	Choose UV-stable resin; store away from sun

Project recipe A — Clear window round with botanical halo

Specs

• Ø 32 mm × 6 mm; epoxy resin.
• Base 1.5 mm clear → translucent teal veil → pressed baby’s breath halo → clear cap.
• Drilled 2.0 mm at 3 mm from edge; 5 mm jump ring.

Steps

1. Base pour; warm-air; gel to soft tack.
2. Veil with transparent teal (very light); rest 5 minutes.
3. Pre-wet tiny petals; arrange ring just inside the perimeter.
4. Cap to height; cover; cure 18–24 hours; demold; finish.

Project recipe B — Teardrop mica shimmer with gold leaf accents

Specs

• 36 mm teardrop × 7 mm; epoxy or PU.
• Base 1 mm → ultra-thin pearl mica wash → micro-flakes of gold leaf pressed flat → clear cap.
• Glue-on bail centered on back (degrease + minimal adhesive).

Steps

1. Base; gel; swirl a faint mica wash (pinch per 20 g).
2. Press leaf pieces; avoid edges; seal with a thin veil.
3. Cap; cure; polish to mirror clarity.

Project recipe C — Hexagon ink bloom with translucent gradient

Specs

• 28 mm hex × 6 mm; epoxy.
• Base clear → gradient dye (bottom darker) → three micro-drops alcohol ink + one tiny white → clear cap.
• Drilled hole; split ring for security.

Steps

1. Pour base; rest; add gradient with a pipette.
2. Drop ink sparsely; wait 20 seconds; add micro white at centers.
3. When motion slows, cap; cure fully before sanding/polish.

Practice drills to build consistency

• Bubble control: pour five 1–2 mm windows and practice warm-air sweeps until consistently bubble-free.
• Color discipline: create a swatch card of dye strengths (1–5 drops per 20 g) to learn thresholds.
• Inclusion spacing: dry-run botanical halos on paper, then replicate in resin within a 1–2 mm border.
• Finishing: run the 800→1500→3000→polish ladder on a scrap blank; keep as a reference.

Start-to-finish checklist

1. Prepare a ventilated bench; lay out PPE, level molds, dust cover.
2. Choose size/shape (round/teardrop/hex) and target thickness (5–8 mm).
3. Warm sealed bottles; weigh precisely; stir slowly; rest.
4. Pour base window; gel; plan color and inclusion positions.
5. Apply translucent veils and effects sparingly; pre-wet inclusions.
6. Stack layers thinly; use warm air and tapping to release bubbles.
7. Cure covered; demold gently; wet-sand back on a flat plate.
8. Polish to clarity; drill or glue bail; close rings cleanly.
9. Hang test for face-forward wear; wipe and store separately.